bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
they are supposed to be different sizes,not the same size.Thicker on top,skinnier on the bottom.Correct me if I am wrong here...you will solve this soon...lmao..Make sure that tent you are working in doesn't collapse from the weight of the snow or the winds that are supposed be wicked I hear.Hurry up!!
slip small tape measure thru the hole in the frame,(remove washer and leave snap ring on shaft)from the side of the snap ring, to the end of the jackshaft it should be 4 and 9/16" long.
4 9/16"
also when put the spacer into the backside of the chaincase, it should only protrude out .070" to the edge of the chaincase housing. see pic.
looks like the right spacer but i didnt measure how thick it is, i can do so next trip.
4 9/16"
also when put the spacer into the backside of the chaincase, it should only protrude out .070" to the edge of the chaincase housing. see pic.
looks like the right spacer but i didnt measure how thick it is, i can do so next trip.
Attachments
bluemonster1 said:
your talking about the spacers on the gear side, this is the INSIDE of the chaincase in which they are the same size.............
also, see what number it says on the side of the bearing top, theres a number on the seal.
spacer is .4965 thick or will read about 1/2" on tape
spacer in back of case with bearing-thickness should be 1 1/8" on a tape
6205 bearing
spacer is .4965 thick or will read about 1/2" on tape
spacer in back of case with bearing-thickness should be 1 1/8" on a tape
6205 bearing
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95rxl650
Member
Those measurements check out perfectly.
I'll dig out some spectacles and see if I see the bearing number
I'll dig out some spectacles and see if I see the bearing number
95rxl650
Member
Correct bearing and measurement.
Brake rotor is 1-1/4 through the center.
Brake rotor is 1-1/4 through the center.
95rxl650
Member
bluemonster1 said:
I'm moving as fast as I can while I have the help. Did I mention that I appreciate it.
My tent is threatening to blow away and the snow is drifting up inside it.
Wife is going to scold me when she see's, or more correctly, doesnt see the key board. lol
hmmm those jackshaft measurements are exactly the same both ends? then how is it sticking out a extra 1/2 on the clutch side, gotta be the wrong length shaft then, theres nothing else left. still doesnt explain why it has a 1/2 less threads on the bnut up top with gear on!
the thing that sticks in my mind is simply the shaft sticks out a 1/2" too far the spacers for the chaincase inside are a 1/2" thick...........
the thing that sticks in my mind is simply the shaft sticks out a 1/2" too far the spacers for the chaincase inside are a 1/2" thick...........
ok, take out the airbox so you can see this is the last thing to verify.
stick tape measure thru hole on chaincase side of frame, measure over to the inside of the aluminum frame on clutch side. tape will be angled up slightly to clear the bearing and retainers. you should have 21 1/8" from end of shaft to inside the frame above the bearing.
the outside of the frame to the end of jackshaft on clutch side should be 3-7/8"
stick tape measure thru hole on chaincase side of frame, measure over to the inside of the aluminum frame on clutch side. tape will be angled up slightly to clear the bearing and retainers. you should have 21 1/8" from end of shaft to inside the frame above the bearing.
the outside of the frame to the end of jackshaft on clutch side should be 3-7/8"
95rxl650
Member
Ya, just toss the nasty spacers. lol
Jackshaft is 25-1/8, same as Blue's, clip to end is same as yours, all measurements check out.
I cant even remember what I had on the cluth side now. lol
I gave the jack a smack towards the chaincase about a half inch. Maybe as I reasemble I'll be able to see where I gain the 1/2".
What about the rotor? Is yours 1-1/4 through the center?
Jackshaft is 25-1/8, same as Blue's, clip to end is same as yours, all measurements check out.
I cant even remember what I had on the cluth side now. lol
I gave the jack a smack towards the chaincase about a half inch. Maybe as I reasemble I'll be able to see where I gain the 1/2".
What about the rotor? Is yours 1-1/4 through the center?
95rxl650
Member
oops, missed yours before I posted and smacked the shaft over. I had about 4" I believe and the collar still stuck out a half inch.
Air box was already out so I could get a good measurement for the shaft length.
What about the secondary itself. I think mine is 5-1/2 through the center.
i'll recheck
Air box was already out so I could get a good measurement for the shaft length.
What about the secondary itself. I think mine is 5-1/2 through the center.
i'll recheck
super1c
Super Moderator
Could it be as simple as the jackshaft spacer was hung up on the oil seal when put together at one time? Maybe just put it back together being careful to make sure everything is seated correctly and see if it will line back up. Ive had that darn spacer hang up on the drive shaft oil seal many times. First time not noticing till the track would not line up on the drivers. Everything looked and felt fine. Took me a bit to figure out what was wrong. All your hard work between you and mr viper has ruled out just about everything? Also the thickness of the outside edge of the oil seal to the bearing is just about that mystery 1/2 inch!!??
ya, thats correct on the brake hub.
theres little set screws on the Jackshaft bearing on clutch side, loosen those up(this will let the shaft float to the left and right in bearing)
Then reassemble the chaincase and tighten up the top gear/chain/bottom gear bolt first, then go back and tighten down clutch side set screws in bearing.
see where your shaft length is sticking out on the clutch side after that. Seems hard to belive it could be off a 1/2" and when you tighten down the chaincase to the frame it didnt crack it as thats a awfull lot of flex to put on it.
theres little set screws on the Jackshaft bearing on clutch side, loosen those up(this will let the shaft float to the left and right in bearing)
Then reassemble the chaincase and tighten up the top gear/chain/bottom gear bolt first, then go back and tighten down clutch side set screws in bearing.
see where your shaft length is sticking out on the clutch side after that. Seems hard to belive it could be off a 1/2" and when you tighten down the chaincase to the frame it didnt crack it as thats a awfull lot of flex to put on it.
this was more work for you then for me, I was already in the process of changing out the track this morning when I saw your post, but at least youll know you have it all together correct for sure......lol 
plus youll never forget the order to put one back in again.....lol
BTW_ was your brake caliper pistons/pads sticking out the same even distance on each side when you turn it over and look at it, seems like the rotor would have needed to be a 1/2" further to the side if everything was tight....cant believe you could have it off a 1/2" and not break something... like I said always hard to reverse putting something together wrong to see if it would work.
plus youll never forget the order to put one back in again.....lol
BTW_ was your brake caliper pistons/pads sticking out the same even distance on each side when you turn it over and look at it, seems like the rotor would have needed to be a 1/2" further to the side if everything was tight....cant believe you could have it off a 1/2" and not break something... like I said always hard to reverse putting something together wrong to see if it would work.
95rxl650
Member
Ok, so I set my shaft to 3-7/8 from the bulkhead/bearing.
My clutch slides all the way to the bearing with no effort.
Install collar and it sticks out 1/2" past the clutch face.
Collar is 2". So I'm back to the secondary. Mine is 5-9/16 through. Keeps changing by a 1/16 depending how cold my hands are. lol
I'd hate to think it was a piece of rubber stopping all the torque. Damn oil seals.
My clutch slides all the way to the bearing with no effort.
Install collar and it sticks out 1/2" past the clutch face.
Collar is 2". So I'm back to the secondary. Mine is 5-9/16 through. Keeps changing by a 1/16 depending how cold my hands are. lol
I'd hate to think it was a piece of rubber stopping all the torque. Damn oil seals.
95rxl650
Member
Missed that. I got 21 bang on, but tapes are tapes.mrviper700 said:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I feel you you right now working in that tent with cold hands as I work in my heated garage..but must say you have drive and determination.Better hurry up and clean all the oil and grease from the keyboard before wife gets home...lmao..sense of humor is good .If you solve it i will be worth it..if not...just let the tent and sled blow away...GOOD LUCK!!95rxl650 said:Ok, so I set my shaft to 3-7/8 from the bulkhead/bearing.
My clutch slides all the way to the bearing with no effort.
Install collar and it sticks out 1/2" past the clutch face.
Collar is 2". So I'm back to the secondary. Mine is 5-9/16 through. Keeps changing by a 1/16 depending how cold my hands are. lol
I'd hate to think it was a piece of rubber stopping all the torque. Damn oil seals.
set clutch on workbench stick tape down the hole and its 5 5/8"
i didnt know of a differnt length clutch
spacer is 2.012" long that goes on the bolt.
there is a small amount of play, meaning the clutch should move back and forth or in and out on the jackshaft say a 1/8" total.
i didnt know of a differnt length clutch
spacer is 2.012" long that goes on the bolt.
there is a small amount of play, meaning the clutch should move back and forth or in and out on the jackshaft say a 1/8" total.
95rxl650
Member
Thanks Blue. I should have had the sled back in my shop before this started. I just knew it would end up with some wrenchin. No worries though. I dont get to excited about things like this. Just missing the good snow right now.
Soooo, everything seems to be as it should. All measurements and parts are in spec. Hopefully reasembled just the right way, it will cure itself.
One more question. Does your clutch slide easily all the way into the bearing?
Maybe my shaft is wore?
Might have to make a collar to sit in there to keep the correct alignment or grab the parts sled shaft.....or all the sled. lol
Soooo, everything seems to be as it should. All measurements and parts are in spec. Hopefully reasembled just the right way, it will cure itself.
One more question. Does your clutch slide easily all the way into the bearing?
Maybe my shaft is wore?
Might have to make a collar to sit in there to keep the correct alignment or grab the parts sled shaft.....or all the sled. lol
95rxl650 said:
sure, the sec. clutch should move freely on the jackshaft in and out with no drag.
assemble it the way i9 posted with the jackshaft set screws loose on the clutch side. if its still sticking out a 1/2" the frame is bent on the sled, theres nothing else left! use the pics i posted to compare so your checking it the same way i am.