YooperWoods
New member
She's got legs! Turned out great, sits really nice. This thing is going to be wicked in the deep. I used a Ski Doo SCIII out of my 04 and a 144" x 2" Summit track. The skid was a 121 stretched to 144 with TracksUSA extensions. I've also got it fully uncoupled. Front mounts had to be moved up and back and rear mounts moved forward. When I took the skid out of my Doo I made a template of the tunnel and mounting points and kept the geometry the same on the Phazer. Had to move skid mount points back 1 3/4" to compensate for the difference between 10t drivers and 7t that I'm running on the Phazer.
Snowdad the track and drivers went in really easy. Course I had the sled completely upside down and could lay the track up tight in the tunnel, then I just stuck the drivers in, no big hammers, pry bars or cussing, it just slid right in. I've got enough room to run the full 2" track too, at least I'm going to try it. There's a quarter inch at the tightest spot and I'm fine with that.
I did port the track, not for weight savings but to make it more flexible and easier to turn which is the real reason for track porting. Free horsepower.
From here on out the rest is easy. Shouldn't be long now, which is good cause we got 6" of snow the other day.
Snowdad the track and drivers went in really easy. Course I had the sled completely upside down and could lay the track up tight in the tunnel, then I just stuck the drivers in, no big hammers, pry bars or cussing, it just slid right in. I've got enough room to run the full 2" track too, at least I'm going to try it. There's a quarter inch at the tightest spot and I'm fine with that.
I did port the track, not for weight savings but to make it more flexible and easier to turn which is the real reason for track porting. Free horsepower.
From here on out the rest is easy. Shouldn't be long now, which is good cause we got 6" of snow the other day.
YooperWoods
New member
snowdad4
VIP Member
looking good! glad your track fitment went well. not to rain on the parade, but i am anticipating you learning a bit about snow evacuation along with powder ballooning.
i run a triangular affair mimicking the tunnel taper with 3/16 aluminum for the extensions. you can get creative and and cut out some material for a one-off appearance. the first few i used a round bar for the rear grab. almost polaris like from 06ish and up. theres a ski doo mtn sled bumper that fits real nice and has the cross bar that keeps the snow flap away when your really stuck. nice feature, similar to the mtn max and mtn viper but finishes off better. off the top of my head i think its 99-02 summit.
i run a triangular affair mimicking the tunnel taper with 3/16 aluminum for the extensions. you can get creative and and cut out some material for a one-off appearance. the first few i used a round bar for the rear grab. almost polaris like from 06ish and up. theres a ski doo mtn sled bumper that fits real nice and has the cross bar that keeps the snow flap away when your really stuck. nice feature, similar to the mtn max and mtn viper but finishes off better. off the top of my head i think its 99-02 summit.
YooperWoods
New member
Good to see you back snowdad, it sure is quiet in here. Yeah a buddy of mine said the same thing about snow evacuation. He also recommended I cut the lugs because of all the snow coming up over the track which has to get out through that tight spot. The lugs on this track actually measure less than 2", it's more like 2" from the inside of the track to tip of the lugs. I'll probably go ahead and cut a quarter of an inch off and see how that works. So what is your secret for cutting the lugs?
Last night was trying to get the secondary off the shaft with no luck. It is seized on good. Can't really figure a way to support the outer sheave to press the shaft out. Any ideas? The secondary feels fine and is working smooth but I'd sure like to get it off.
Last night was trying to get the secondary off the shaft with no luck. It is seized on good. Can't really figure a way to support the outer sheave to press the shaft out. Any ideas? The secondary feels fine and is working smooth but I'd sure like to get it off.
Yamaha Nutz
New member
heat lube and press
snowdad4
VIP Member
shaft out, that makes it easier. do you have a press available? if so, support the helix on your press plates and push the shaft through. heat helps and i am a firm believer in acetone/atf mixed for eating rust. i would let it soak a few hours and press the shaft out.
no press? soak it a bit, add some heat, and use a proper size round punch with the clutch on the vice and some wood under the helix. be sure and protect the threads.
i have cut many track lugs using a sawzall blade, but not like you would think. what i use is the metal cutting style 6" blades, but not the toothed part. i take my worn out ones and run them across the bench grinder to create a knife blade, if you catch my drift. i make a jig for height, usually out of aluminum square stock and clamp it to the track then run the blade across the top to keep things even. steel or aluminum works better than wood as the blade wont gouge in. after several lugs simply resharpen your blade and go some more. quick, clean, and easy.
that track appears to have been cut already as i recall those having v-grooves at the tip. could just be camera angle but the lugs appear flat topped in the pictures?
glad to see you pulled the windage plates off the clutch, now lose the screws. you will gain some cooling by not running the plates.
no press? soak it a bit, add some heat, and use a proper size round punch with the clutch on the vice and some wood under the helix. be sure and protect the threads.
i have cut many track lugs using a sawzall blade, but not like you would think. what i use is the metal cutting style 6" blades, but not the toothed part. i take my worn out ones and run them across the bench grinder to create a knife blade, if you catch my drift. i make a jig for height, usually out of aluminum square stock and clamp it to the track then run the blade across the top to keep things even. steel or aluminum works better than wood as the blade wont gouge in. after several lugs simply resharpen your blade and go some more. quick, clean, and easy.
that track appears to have been cut already as i recall those having v-grooves at the tip. could just be camera angle but the lugs appear flat topped in the pictures?
glad to see you pulled the windage plates off the clutch, now lose the screws. you will gain some cooling by not running the plates.
YooperWoods
New member
Yes I have a press, and heat, but for some reason I thought you had to remove the outer sheave first. Thought there was a circlip that had to be removed between the two but I just looked at the manual again and I see I was wrong. Sorry, I'm not very knowledgeable about clutching.
No the track was never cut. You can still see dimpling on the end of the lugs. The 2 1/4 on my ski doo does has the v-grooves.
No the track was never cut. You can still see dimpling on the end of the lugs. The 2 1/4 on my ski doo does has the v-grooves.
YooperWoods
New member
I found a set of carbs from a 96 Vmax 600 for $50, but there's no cables. Can I use the Phazer cables with these carbs or do I need to get vmax cables?
YooperWoods
New member
I do have the 87F weights also the 8VO's. For springs I have yellow/red, yellow/purple/yellow, green/yellow, a green/maybe blue? The last one is longer than the rest and narrower coil. There's one more but can't see any colors on it. Suggestions on these springs?yes the splines are different on the drive shafts ...........like what was said the bender pipe and Aaen pipe are the same .....with stock carbs for your year sled I would bump the pilots to 110 and the mains to 148.8....for flat slides the 95 600 38mm carbs just require a main jet change the rest for me at least was spot on but my motor is nowhere near stock the SX cut on the pistons is a easy 4 hp and helps the bottom end and mid range a lot .....if the primary has the 87F weights run those with the red/ green spring and stock secondary set in B-2 should come in at 4500 rpms and rev to 72-73
The secondary spring is stock and in C-2 but I'll change that to B-2. I ordered new ramp shoes for it so it's coming apart again. I should've ordered a new spring cause the one in it measures 80mm and manual says limit is 86mm.
Last edited:
snowdad4
VIP Member
you will have to play with the clutches to suit your needs. i ran pretty much stock springs and settings using the st model as a guideline and adjusting for altitude from there.
if i recall correctly, you will need not only the cabling for the vmax carbs, but you need the throttle perch and lever as well. dont forget the choke cables and plungers. the vmax carbs didnt pull the oil pump cable, that was done from the perch. pz carbs pull the oil cable at the rack. next issue is fitment of the cable ferrules. seems like the sizing may be different.
if your interested, i may have some old vmax stuff sitting around if you need it for mock up or we can compare fitment. rather see this stuff go for need than let it lay around.
if i recall correctly, you will need not only the cabling for the vmax carbs, but you need the throttle perch and lever as well. dont forget the choke cables and plungers. the vmax carbs didnt pull the oil pump cable, that was done from the perch. pz carbs pull the oil cable at the rack. next issue is fitment of the cable ferrules. seems like the sizing may be different.
if your interested, i may have some old vmax stuff sitting around if you need it for mock up or we can compare fitment. rather see this stuff go for need than let it lay around.
YooperWoods
New member
I think starting from stock is a good idea and will give me a baseline to tune from. I've got both clutches back on now with stock settings so we'll see how that works. It won't be long either we're getting hammered with a major snow storm. They're saying up to two feet between now and Wednesday, and possibly more in higher elevations away from the big lake.
Sounds like I need a vmax parts sled just to do the carb conversion lol. Yeah I'd be interested in whatever you have that may help. I'll just start gathering parts and in the meantime clean the stock carbs, jet them for the pipe and run em till I get everything needed to swap in vmax carbs. Oh and I'm running premix and deleted the oil pump and gear so no need for the oil pump cable. Which brings up another question, I need to come up with a tach since the stocker was driven by the oil pump shaft. I don't care about the speedo so I'll probably remove that and just run a tach in it's place.
On a side note I'm now a VIP member, although it's not showing yet. Figured with all the help I've gotten here and all the info I found searching the site it's the least I could do to give something back.
Sounds like I need a vmax parts sled just to do the carb conversion lol. Yeah I'd be interested in whatever you have that may help. I'll just start gathering parts and in the meantime clean the stock carbs, jet them for the pipe and run em till I get everything needed to swap in vmax carbs. Oh and I'm running premix and deleted the oil pump and gear so no need for the oil pump cable. Which brings up another question, I need to come up with a tach since the stocker was driven by the oil pump shaft. I don't care about the speedo so I'll probably remove that and just run a tach in it's place.
On a side note I'm now a VIP member, although it's not showing yet. Figured with all the help I've gotten here and all the info I found searching the site it's the least I could do to give something back.
Maim
Super Moderator
i have a tac listed that works off of the lighting wiring that is yamaha oe from waaay back. might be a polaris or doo tac that also works but i know this one does as i run it on my et410.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/5533-tac
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/5533-tac
YooperWoods
New member
Thanks Maim but I found some simple solutions for a tach both analog or digital for cheap.
Did I mention we were having a snow storm here? Yep got a foot already since early afternoon and it's coming down hard still. Heard 20 - 30" now. Just finished pushing it out of my drive with the bobcat. Heavy snow too will make a good base. Oh the urgency now in getting my sleds ready!
Did I mention we were having a snow storm here? Yep got a foot already since early afternoon and it's coming down hard still. Heard 20 - 30" now. Just finished pushing it out of my drive with the bobcat. Heavy snow too will make a good base. Oh the urgency now in getting my sleds ready!
super1c
Super Moderator
Thanks Maim but I found some simple solutions for a tach both analog or digital for cheap.
Did I mention we were having a snow storm here? Yep got a foot already since early afternoon and it's coming down hard still. Heard 20 - 30" now. Just finished pushing it out of my drive with the bobcat. Heavy snow too will make a good base. Oh the urgency now in getting my sleds ready!
Simply awesome!
YooperWoods
New member
Simply awesome!
Instant winter! We got 30" in Marquette and just a few miles west got over 3 feet. It looks like the middle of January around here. I've lived here for 51 years and don't ever remember this much snow this early. This storm would be a big one in the middle of winter let alone early November.
Rifle deer season starts this weekend and I don't know how a lot of folks are going to get into their camps. The only way into mine now is by snowmobile so guess I better get my sleds done!
YooperWoods
New member
Got the carbs cleaned up and was looking at jets I need and possibly changing the primary and main nozzles to fatten up the mid/top and decided I'm not putting any money into these. Bought a set of 96 vmax 600 carbs with only 1000 miles on them and they have the choke and throttle cables. Might as well do it right since I've gone this far with it. I'll find out when they get here if I can use the stock phazer throttle block.
YooperWoods
New member
New carbs are cleaned and installed. Jetting is stock with needle clip in middle position with shim underneath it. Going to try it as is.
I found these reeds in the boxes of stuff that was given to me. Stock is on the right with the metal reeds and the one on the left is a two stage reed, Boyeson I assume. Those are the ones I installed.
I found these reeds in the boxes of stuff that was given to me. Stock is on the right with the metal reeds and the one on the left is a two stage reed, Boyeson I assume. Those are the ones I installed.
Cooper0809
New member
Lookin great man! You'll have lots of fun on that once it's finished. It'll go anywhere��
YooperWoods
New member
Thanks Cooper0809. That's the plan, a lightweight go anywhere sled. I hope it lives up to my expectations!
She's almost ready to fire, just need to clean the tank, run some new fuel lines and do a little bit of wiring. Gutted the air box last night, never seen one with so many baffles and crap in it.
She's almost ready to fire, just need to clean the tank, run some new fuel lines and do a little bit of wiring. Gutted the air box last night, never seen one with so many baffles and crap in it.
Cooper0809
New member
Looking good! My buddy has a phazer, not sure of the year....but he has done the same thing as what you are doing. 144" with a sc10 lll skid in it. I've seen it first hand climb some pretty steep hills!!! He only has a 1.25" lug on his though...but it still climbs.