SLP Triple Pipe Install Questions, Need Pics if You Have Them

supercharged111 said:
Do you have pics of what melted? The SLP instructions were written at a time when the bar was apparently quite low for such a thing.
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I don't have exact photos of it, but I marked up a photo of the sled to show the three general spots.

It was the clutch side pipe, near the shock mount, as well as the pipe near the mag side pipe where it rests on the heat taped area, and the silencer rubs on the side of the belly pan.

I found that if I lifted the pipe that is near the mag side shock mount that it brought everything more I to alignment, as the other two pipes rest on that lowest pipe. So I feel that a single heat shield there that lifts it will make the difference.

This is all off of memory from last winter so my recollection may not be perfect.
 

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So here are a few photos, I made a shield out of aluminum with two layers of fire blanket for added insulation between the shield and the plastic.

You can see the spot by the right side upper shock mount that was getting the worst of the heat from the mag side pipe.

This seems to be enough, and was pretty quick to whip up with a metal blade on the circular saw, my vise and a dead blow.

However, even though I got the sled dialed with the factory set up, it still isn't running properly with these pipes. I'm about to drop it off with the local Yamaha guy here to just let him try to figure it out. I paid an arm and a leg for these damned pipes so I want them to work!

I followed the SLP spec sheet, I've got 147.5 mains jets, the blue/white spring, 8CR weights with steel 13.3mm weights on the inside and steel 10.3mm weights on the outside, and the secondary is clocked as suggested.

It will pull to 8600 rpm from a dig, then slowly fade down to 7000rpm as track speed is built up.

I'd love to hear what people have to say for possible solutions; and again to clarify, it would pull full rpm and >130km/hr with the stock clutching and pipe, but will hardly break 100km/hr with the SLP pipes and their clutching/jetting suggestions.
 

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I just pulled my pipes and had a melty spot right there as well. I think I have some stick on insulation and aluminum sheet laying around to try something there. I'm replacing the strut deals that tie the bumper to the bullhead plus the thing they bolt to so the center of the bellypan is coming out. Last year though my sled acted similar, it would initially tach out then around 70 just dump. It's going to take a balance of weights and the right helix to get it dialed in properly. Right now it's good enough to ride once I get it back together.
 
supercharged111 said:
I just pulled my pipes and had a melty spot right there as well. I think I have some stick on insulation and aluminum sheet laying around to try something there. I'm replacing the strut deals that tie the bumper to the bullhead plus the thing they bolt to so the center of the bellypan is coming out. Last year though my sled acted similar, it would initially tach out then around 70 just dump. It's going to take a balance of weights and the right helix to get it dialed in properly. Right now it's good enough to ride once I get it back together.
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It seems unlikely that it should require a different helix to hit proper rpm.

To me the it would seem reasonable to assume that the SLP suggestions will get a guy within a few hundred rpm ±.

1800 rpm off would be a lot to have to adjust for.
 
Peak Seeker said:
It seems unlikely that it should require a different helix to hit proper rpm.

To me the it would seem reasonable to assume that the SLP suggestions will get a guy within a few hundred rpm ±.

1800 rpm off would be a lot to have to adjust for.
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A dual angle or progressive helix will help to bend that RPM curve in the right direction though. Mine would drop to low 8000s and stop climbing mph. 3 different sets of weight and essentially the same result. I want to try the late SRX weights.
 
i though that these pipe wanted more than 8600 rpm witch is stock pipe rpm for a yammy tripple. from what i remeber only aeen pipes where happy at stock rpm.
 
Maim said:
i though that these pipe wanted more than 8600 rpm witch is stock pipe rpm for a yammy tripple. from what i remeber only aeen pipes where happy at stock rpm.
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The dyno I found had them peaking at 8850 and I can say from experience it goes faster pulling 9000 than it does at 8500.
 
supercharged111 said:
A dual angle or progressive helix will help to bend that RPM curve in the right direction though. Mine would drop to low 8000s and stop climbing mph. 3 different sets of weight and essentially the same result. I want to try the late SRX weights.
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I'll be interested in finding out what result you get out of that.

I'm going to start by closing up my secondary a small amount, and then going through and freshening up my primary with new rollers and such.

It was suggested to me that I try the 97-99 14.5mm rollers, as my 2000 has the 16mm rollers.
 
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