Musselman's SRX Project

musselman said:
Thanks guys, yah I just installed these seals last year so they only have 3500 km on them. I'll just clean it up and keep an eye on it, don't really want to do an engine tear down at this point.
Click to expand...

the crankseals are a double lipped dual spring seal, doubt its leaking any air. Usually they leak because of age and the rubber starts to get hard and brittle and bits wear/fall out and the seal drws in air. You can check it pretty easily with engine out if you cant sleep at night.

just make covers for the exh outlets and some wooden dowel plugs for the intake boots, put a low amount of air pressure in engine via the crankcase nipple for fuel pump, only like 6-8lbs.of pressure. Spray seal with fantastic or something soapy and it will foam wherever there is a air leak. you can also put the air in thru sparkplug hole with piston at bdc on the pto for just that seal, just put rubber vac plug on crankcase nipple.
 
mrviper700 said:
the crankseals are a double lipped dual spring seal, doubt its leaking any air. Usually they leak because of age and the rubber starts to get hard and brittle and bits wear/fall out and the seal drws in air. You can check it pretty easily with engine out if you cant sleep at night.

just make covers for the exh outlets and some wooden dowel plugs for the intake boots, put a low amount of air pressure in engine via the crankcase nipple for fuel pump, only like 6-8lbs.of pressure. Spray seal with fantastic or something soapy and it will foam wherever there is a air leak. you can also put the air in thru sparkplug hole with piston at bdc on the pto for just that seal, just put rubber vac plug on crankcase nipple.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I would feel better checking them and I already have plugs for the exhaust and intake. Plus I have a leak tester built to use on my blaster which will work great for this too. I will have to get my but in gear and get it done. ;)!
 
Started to put my front end together this week and ran into a snag. Noticed that my aluminum steering arms will not work with these snocross trailing arms because the radius rod bracket is above the spindle. You can see in the picture how close it is and how it severely limits steering.

IMG_0563.jpg


IMG_0562.jpg


IMG_0565.jpg


IMG_0566.jpg




I thought of using viper steering arms but then remembered the splines are different, so I'm going to need some custom arms maybe, unless anyone has any ideas. These are the ones used on the snocross sleds, they are similar to viper ones but made for the short spindle splines (The arrow is not pointing to them).

SnowcrossSteeringArm.png
 
what if you threaded the inside half of your steering arm with a helicoil and then radius-ed it on that inside edge where it hits like the ones from the sno-cross pic. not sure if it would work but it's an idea
 
staggs65 said:
what if you threaded the inside half of your steering arm with a helicoil and then radius-ed it on that inside edge where it hits like the ones from the sno-cross pic. not sure if it would work but it's an idea
Click to expand...
That's a great idea but I think it hits when turning the other way too. I guess I could have a radius across the entire front then have the split welded, then machine a slot behind with a hole drilled to pinch it on the spindle, but that's a lot of modification
 
SXRider7Hundo said:
Boy that's gonna be a squeaker! How different are they? Would you be able to machine an insert to use the viper arms?
Click to expand...
The viper has fine splines where as the other has more coarse splines. I was thinking of getting some viper arms re-splined to match the coarse splines but I don't know if I can do that.
 
U can weld viper splined ends on to your srx one just have to be welded good with a inner solid shaft. Make sure your taper cut both pieces. That way you can use aluminum viper arms. Or cut down some viper ones. The same way.
 
Here's the deal. You'll notice the factory snowcross steering arms are rounded at the top to clear the radius rod bracket and the bolt is on the opposite side of the stocker. I'm getting some machined as we speak, unfortunately cannot confirm ETA or price at the moment.
 

Attachments

  • Jon's Viper (18) (Medium).jpg
    Jon's Viper (18) (Medium).jpg
    77.1 KB · Views: 59
Last edited:
What was the best way to unroll the edges did you heat them to there nealing point or do it cold, and just rivet the edges on? How bout the steps on the back too? I really like the set up and might do it to mine, not a big fan of narrow running boards. Thanks chris
 
I started with a pry bar under the inside edge to get it started then used a pair of good channel lock pliers that fit under the inside lip to slowly unroll it. The trick is to do a little at a time and move along the entire length so it doesn't tear or deform.
 
chris700readhead said:
What was the best way to unroll the edges did you heat them to there nealing point or do it cold, and just rivet the edges on? How bout the steps on the back too? I really like the set up and might do it to mine, not a big fan of narrow running boards. Thanks chris
Click to expand...

betheviper has a thread with instructions on doing this. there might even be a link to it in his sig
 
Just an update,

I am re-positioning my rear suspension to better match the very tall front end. Believe it or not the M-10 is not tall enough in the stock position so I am using some custom drop brackets for the rear to drop the hole below the heat exchanger, then dropping the front so it sits level. When it is done it is going to sit very tall with about 13" of clearance under the belly pan at full extension, but with proper suspension sag it should settle down to a more reasonable height.


I will post some pictures soon...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top