New SRX 700 owner/stuck after leaving sled in snow

ViperGYTR said:
Why don't you spend a few bucks and take this too a good mechanic before you destroy this beauty with your own ride and test repair procedures...

Would save you money in the long run, especially if you have a major failure doing what your doing...and you will get to ride your sled the way it's suppose to be

When it's fixed you should learn the basics doing maintenance...if your such a newbie you should ship the troubleshooting and let a pro handle it...this forum is great but you can only help so much sitting behind a computer...too many variables

A mechanic could ride it and know right away what's wrong

Trust me bud, she's worth spending a few bucks getting repaired and tuned up correctly! I'd hate to see a beauty Srx getting abused


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Thanks man. And I agree. Was just hoping it was something simple. Snowmobile mechanics in nj are not easy to find but I am going to have to search more.

I was going to take off clutch and start fin but decided not to. I took belt off and was opening secondary and it just felt rough and not smooth. Like I was battling friction and not just tension.

I made my decision and I'm having this machine shipped to the dealer in New Hampshire to take a look at a fix under warranty. So therefore I didn't want to tinker and by chance him not find the issue. Right now it is repeatable. Next year I will have all the right tools and setup but for now I need this guy to just get it setup right. I spoke to him again at length. Shipper is coming tomorrow, machine will be at shop Monday. Going to be about $400 in shipping after going both ways but free work.

I just hate my snow will be melted then, but I might have it shipped to Pittsburg, nh since I will be arriving there on feb 7. Better get some more snow up there. : ( I see 2 x 39 degree days in the forecast this week. Bunch of bs

There are other things Off topic to clutching that I've noticed that I want him to clean up/fix if it isn't normal. what are your thoughts?:

- Black oil under exhaust where the exhaust pieces come together close to engine. That normal? Seems to be under each cylinders exhaust right where the two pieces meet
- my traction sucks this last snow storm. Light snow with not much water content but still....I have studs. Unless with the torque this machine has it needs to be def hard packed snow??
- should I have him clean the carbs?
- install a fuel shutoff valve?
- put fuel filters inline?
- wire in my faceshield defroster or is this easy for me to do?

I'm trying to think of things that I can have them do so I don't have to deal with it next year. This srx is a real beauty though. Not a scratch on it, low miles. Just need it working. And I can't wait till it is working right.
 
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For the record studs don't do anything in loose snow. They are for hardpack trails and ice. That's it.
If you have a stock track. Traction will always suck. I had a stock 136" long track with 108 studs last spring and it was crummy hook up on trails at best.
 
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Got it. That said, for a guy who has to make his own trails, what track should I get?
 
All of the above. Grass field, corn field, through the woods. But I expect the snow to be higher than anything I ride across
 
Docfroid said:
All of the above. Grass field, corn field, through the woods.
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Over the river and through the woods.
Because of the ground you could be riding on, I'd have to recommend a track in the 1.5 size and built pretty stout.
A Camoplast Intense 1.5 fits the bill.
http://www.cbperformanceparts.com/camoplast-tracks/cross-country-tracks/intense-15-x-121-9930c/
Or a Composit Talon 38. I don't know anything about this new company. But it's pretty apparent that they're built for the long haul.
http://composit-usa.com/catalog/cross-country/talon-38.html
 
I'll check it out. FYI. Machine got to NH today and will be at dealer tomorrow. After reading most of Olav's clutch handbook I suspect my issue is the secondary clutch bearing. Or a combo of that and loose mounts. I'll keep everyone posted. Boo to this 40 degree north woods weather
 
So technician called me back today. Said he could t find s thing wrong!! Said out the machine up. Did a compression test. Took the secondary clutch off. Found nothing. Put it back on took it to a lake and got it to 112 on a hot day in wet conditions. Said maybe it got up to 8600-8800 but would drop back down.

I asked if he tried to hit the brake when crawling and if he heard the loud clash of the clutches. He didn't try it, took it around a bit, and couldn't replicate it. I could replicate it time and time again. Every time without fail. It even pipped my belt off. He couldn't get it to do it. Driving me crazy.

Only thing I can think is by him taking the secondary off and putting it back it ended up knocking some dirt off or unlocking up something. He said the clutches were aligned too. Check motor mounts. All good. Waste of money to ship it there. My worst fear is I get it shipped back and the problem is still there.
 
I bought the machine with a 60 day warranty from Jan 1. I bought the machine from a dealer in NH. I live in central NJ. About a 6hr ride. So I shipped it there. Now I have to ship it back. No mechanics in nj who know anything. At least that I can find. Service manual came yesterday. I'm going to have to learn quick.
 
That is so terrible bud, a lot of techs arnt good tuners so you will have to get this done yourself...

- Powervalve clean an adjust cables. Check for operation and may need new seals and gasket kit
- check carb boots and reeds
- Carb clean and adjust, new filter, jets 01 mains and 2000 pilots, screws at 1.5 to 1.75 out

Check tps operation and voltage...there is a updated tps sensor as well
- make sure exhaust is sealed up with copper gasket sealer
- check voltage regulator
- Clutches cleaned, alignment, new belts...all inspected for wear and tuned...just as well to add the proven 51/45 helix setup as you go
- clean chaincase, check ratio, inspect, adjust chain and new fluid, check bearings
- grease all non serviceable bearings with needle greaser
Check driveshaft and jackstaft

This should get your performance back to normal, my guess is your clutches need new bushings, but it will ease your mind if you do a full service like this

Hope it helps


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Check the bushings in the secondary if nothing else shows up. Take the helix off the secondary and see how much wobble the sheaves have relative to each other. Then test the helix on without spring to see if it wobbles. Sometimes the bushing nearest the jackshaft bearing likes to work it's way out. All of these items can cause the secondary to not open all the way and show many of the symptoms you mentioned.
 
Thanks guys.

Bushong for secondary comes next week. Along with spring. So got machine back this am.

Here are the two YouTube video. One is in slow motion and the other is full speed. Read the description. What I noticed when sound is made The helix is getting pushed back farther on the gold collar and when there is a load versus on the jack stand, the belt pushes deep in that gap which then makes it so I can engage and is much louder.

Now without a load on the belt you are not getting to see how when this sound is made, and it only happens very low speed braking, the belt pushes down hard in between the secondary sheaves and gets stuck there. Half inch to an inch down in.

Why it doesn't work it's way back up is beyond me. But I believe all this is creating hotter clutches, belts, and high speeds belt slips. The sound is bad during slow motion and does not align to what is being heard. But you can see the delay and watch the helix pop back right at the end of the slow motion.

Let me know if your thoughts in posts above looks like a new spring and bushing. Cause thats what I have coming.

Slow motion
http://youtu.be/QfaxM5sIPgc

Full speed
http://youtu.be/OmQi9rTxahI
 
looks like your hitting the brake hard causing the stopping sure the emergency brake is of or the caliper is not froze up
 
I'm applying the brake myself. But it should not a big metal bang noise and the belt shouldn't dive into the secondary clutch.
 
Confused said:
Unless I'm missing something it sounds normal to me?
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Like I said, the sound isn't that apparent in that video. If you guys tell me that if we are going slow, a few mph or crawling and if we lock up brake we should hear a loud metal bang, then maybe that's how it is. But it is not heard when going a good speed and braking hard.

Besides the sound, and more importantly, the belt will drive into the secondary sheave. So far in that it won't engage and go when you start again. Is that normal??
 
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