SLP Triple Pipe Install Questions, Need Pics if You Have Them

supercharged111 said:
Went back to verify what all is in this thing from last season. Right now I have 8DN-10 weights with no rivets, stock springs in both clutches, and an RX1 helix at 60 degrees. Carbs have 148.8 mains, 47.5 pilots, and I changed the fuel screws from 1.5 to 1.75 turns out today. Carbs were nice and clean inside. Going to button up the scant remaining details tomorrow and try and take it out Wednesday or Thursday when the streets will be white again. I need to see how these 8EK weights act sooner than later as well.
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Straight 60 degree?
 
Looks good, it's also nice to clean any oil, twigs and cat tail fluff out of the belly pan too.

I ordered a few different items.

It seems that 89L weights seem to be the go to for pipes on these sleds, as well as the 14.5mm rollers.

I found a set of weights used for $100, which is a relief as new they're over $120 a piece new :sick:. And I also got a set of new 14.5 mm rollers from the same guy to try out vs my 16.0mm ones, those should be here tomorrow or Monday. I also ordered a new outer cover bushing, as I did notice that mine was a little worn from 4500km and being on and off a dozen or more times, and with some forum delving I found that it can cause some binding when winding out.

I intend to swap the out cover bushing and install the 89L weights first, and I'll also put some marker on the clutches to see where they're both shifting out to before the next test ride.

We were above freezing here for multiple days this week so our snow is more like a glacier, but that just means that it'll be good for top speed runs haha.

I got out last weekend on my new '24 M8000 finally, and managed to bend the tie rod after an unfortunate mishap loading it into my trailer. Sled only has 75km on it...
$26 and 10 minutes to replace that was a nice change though haha.
 

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Doh! Well at least you ripped off the bandaid by breaking something. Now you can beat it like it owes you money. I am curious to hear your observations with a roller only change on the Vmax. I got mine back together today, likely will take a spin tomorrow as my new neighbor (we're both building houses a couple lots apart) is heading up tomorrow. He's bringing a late 90s Cat ZL600 and a pogo stick 500 Vmax as a backup. I need coolant, oil, and a trail sticker first.
 
Well now it hits about 8900 NOW, but climbs to about 9500 if stay in it and look away from the tach. I think I'll start with putting that Bender helix back in as it won't roll as much RPM back into it on the top end. I may need some weight in the tip of these as well. I may also toss the Viper 8EKs in and see how that does.
 
Hokay so, 49/45 Bender helix back in, no more 9500 but it would still creep over 9000. So I riveted in 1g each at the tips of the 8DN-10, looked up what the Yamaha rivets weigh (2.Xg +), decided that probably wasn't going to cut it but verified first. It really didn't do squat. Sick of driving in and out of town I brought the RX1 helix (in case it reverted to how it acted last season) and red secondary spring (in hopes of lowering the RPM) with me. On my way up to the property the sled started getting nutless, laying down, then popping. Crap, didn't bring plugs with me. Swiped one from the neighbor and gtg again, so swapped in that red spring at 60 degrees and that seems to be the most usable combo yet. There is a point though where it doesn't want to backshift and the motor has to tractor its way through. Once it does it holds 8800-8900 (best as I can tell with the thing bouncing all around on those tiny 98 gauges) as long as I keep the throttle open, went as far as 90 and it was singing along. This combo works similarly (but better) to the last one that worked in warmer weather, I'm beginning to suspect the reason SLP had you with the green spring at 70 degrees on a 45 degree helix was to ensure the motor would backshift sufficiently since it's not a power valve engine. In the meantime I think I need to order more Yamaha rivets so I can drag the RPMs back down via the primary and tighten up that secondary a bit. Sound sane?
 
Another question, this alignment tool:

Clutch alignment tool.heic.jpg

Or this one?

www.krausekustomdesign.com

Yamaha SRX/SXR One Piece Clutch Alignment Tool | My Site

Billet aluminum one piece clutch alignment tool. Sets both center to center distance between clutches aswell as the offset for perfect belt alignment and cooler belt temps every time! Proudly designed and made in the U.S.A! Models also available for polaris,skidoo, and arctic cat.
www.krausekustomdesign.com www.krausekustomdesign.com

Used one came with a Viper which ought to be the same, right? Looks a lot different than the Krause unit though. Do they all set the center to center distance and offset? How about getting the crank parallel with the jackshaft? Are some better than others at that?
 
So. . . went for an actual ride today. Sled still hits 9200 or so WOT with the 8DN-10. If I feather the gas I can keep it under 9000 and it rips as long as I want it to. If I'm doing 70+ the sled won't backshift and it's just stuck there. If I slow down under 60 it'll backshift to 9200+ and rip. So I have to wonder if this isn't where gearing enters the equation? If it's on the pipe it's motoring but at higher speeds once it's off the pipe that's it, no recovering. This must be what it was doing last Spring too too. Losing the single pipe gives up some torque, only way to get it back is to multiply what's there? Could the gearing change I ignored be royally shooting me in the foot here? I wanted to keep as much top end speed as possible, part of going with the pipes was to get into triple digits on the old lie-o-meter on the trail for those long boring railroad grades that are straight forever. I have no idea how fast this thing would go if it were to fully clutch out at 8800 RPM on stock gearing but I do know that the clutches run less efficiently all the way out vs almost all the way out. Before the swap to a 1.25" lug track (every 3rd window closed) the sled would hit 105 on the trail, but I'm unwilling to budge on all the traction it gained me so I figured I'd roll the speed back in with brute force (pipes).
 
Living in the middle of Saskatchewan means it takes a week for any parts to show up, I'm still waiting on the outer clutch cover bushing to show up at the local Yamaha dealer. The 89L weights and 14.5mm bushings should be at the post office today.
 
supercharged111 said:
So. . . went for an actual ride today. Sled still hits 9200 or so WOT with the 8DN-10. If I feather the gas I can keep it under 9000 and it rips as long as I want it to. If I'm doing 70+ the sled won't backshift and it's just stuck there. If I slow down under 60 it'll backshift to 9200+ and rip. So I have to wonder if this isn't where gearing enters the equation? If it's on the pipe it's motoring but at higher speeds once it's off the pipe that's it, no recovering. This must be what it was doing last Spring too too. Losing the single pipe gives up some torque, only way to get it back is to multiply what's there? Could the gearing change I ignored be royally shooting me in the foot here? I wanted to keep as much top end speed as possible, part of going with the pipes was to get into triple digits on the old lie-o-meter on the trail for those long boring railroad grades that are straight forever. I have no idea how fast this thing would go if it were to fully clutch out at 8800 RPM on stock gearing but I do know that the clutches run less efficiently all the way out vs almost all the way out. Before the swap to a 1.25" lug track (every 3rd window closed) the sled would hit 105 on the trail, but I'm unwilling to budge on all the traction it gained me so I figured I'd roll the speed back in with brute force (pipes).
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My experience is limited, but seems to me like a bit heavier rivet, and possibly 10 degrees tighter on the secondary is what my next step would be with where you're at now.
 
Peak Seeker said:
My experience is limited, but seems to me like a bit heavier rivet, and possibly 10 degrees tighter on the secondary is what my next step would be with where you're at now.
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Agreed, I need to order a whole mess of rivets though so I can experiment. I was going to use screws and nuts but that combo is 4g each as opposed to 2.Xg each with the steel rivets. The screw is worth a shot I guess but it would concentrate an awful lot of weight in just 1 spot on the arm compared to how Yamaha did it.
 
supercharged111 said:
Agreed, I need to order a whole mess of rivets though so I can experiment. I was going to use screws and nuts but that combo is 4g each as opposed to 2.Xg each with the steel rivets. The screw is worth a shot I guess but it would concentrate an awful lot of weight in just 1 spot on the arm compared to how Yamaha did it.
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Yes, and removing the cover, then the weight and then drilling out the rivet is a tedious process that causes a small amount of wear and tear each time, I find it frustrating to spend the hour doing that just to find nothing changed haha.

It'd be slick to tap the Yamaha weight rivet holes so that a person could just thread different size bolts/washers in like the thundershift or dalton adjustable weights. I'm constantly watching marketplace for a good set of adjustable weights.
 
I found my 2 leftover rivets, ordered 4 more so those will arrive next week. In the meantime I snapped an aluminum rivet and washer into the inner hole and proceeded to not install it today. Thinking I'll give it a try tomorrow though, not expecting much, but I infer from the SLP setup sheet that the inner hole will respond more than the outer hole. I figure if nothing else I can compare what 1g does to what 2.4g does in that same hole.
 
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